Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley

Hello All,

I am having fun researching African Americans in fashion.  I am finding a lot of information.  Another African American fashion designer I want to highlight is Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley.  Heckley was a former slave who became a successful seamstress, civic activist, and author.

Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley was born a slave in 1818 in Dinwiddie, VA.  Her mother was a "privileged slave" and her father, who was revealed to her later in life, was her slave master, Armistead Burwell. She endured a somewhat brutal life while growing up.  She gave birth to a son, George, in 1839.  While she was still working for the Garland family, her sewing helped support her family.  After she moved with the Garland family to St. Louis, MO, Keckley was able to mingle with its large free black community, as well as establish a connection with women in the white community working a s a free dressmaker.

Keckley met her future husband, James, while also in St. Louis, but refuse to marry him unless she and her son were free.  Once her freedom was granted, she was married and worked hard in her sewing business.  In 1860, she moved to Baltimore, MD and started teaching sewing classes to young black girls, but after six weeks, she hardly had enough money saved to move to Washington, DC.

Once she raised the money, she moved to Washington, DC, and her business took off.  Her clients included:

• Mary Todd Lincoln (wife of President Abraham Lincoln)

• Mary Anna Custis Lee (wife of Gen. Robert E. Lee)

• Varina Davis (wife of Jefferson Davis)

 

Keckley found most of her work with society women by word-of-mouth recommendations.  Keckley worked as Mary Todd Lincoln's personal dressmaker, stylist, and confidante.  While in the White House (and years after) she was the sole designer and creator of Mary Todd Lincoln's event wardrobe.  Although it was a strain in their relationship years later, they still remained in contact with each other.

In later years, she still remained busy with her sewing, teaching sewing classes to young African American women, and she also obtained a position as head of the Department of Sewing and Domestic Science Arts at Wilberforce University.  Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley died in 1907.

Keckley's Designs

 

 

 

Keckley in her design

 

 

Quilt created from scraps of Mary Todd Lincoln's dresses

 

Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley.  An innovator of fashion and American history.

 

Until Next Time!

Beautiful

Hello All,

 

 

 

While researching pictures of Anne Lowe designs, I came across the picture of this model.  Who is she?  She is gorgeous.  I would love to have her model my designs.  I feel all women are beautiful, no matter what race, creed, or color.  We are all beautiful creatures created by God, and this model is simply stunning!

 

If anyone knows this model, please let me know.

 

I will end on that note.  I will have more great posts to share later today.

 

Until Next Time!

Anne Lowe

Hello All,

As you all know, it is Black History Month.  We all know that February is known for celebrating Valentine's Day, but I celebrate it for all of the achievements of African Americans, whether known or unknown.  I have been researching blacks in fashion, and I am so excited from the research I have found.  Tonight, I will highlight another African American fashion designer, Anne Lowe.

Anne Cole Lowe was born in Clayton, Alabama in 1898.  She was the great-granddaughter of a slave and plantation owner.  She was married in 1912 at the age of 14, and attended fashion design school in New York City in 1917.  After graduation, she opened a salon in Tampa, FL, but moved back to New York City and worked on commission at Chez Sonia.

In 1946, she designed the dress worn by actress Olivia de Havilland when she accepted her Academy Award for Best Actress in To Each His Own.

Her most famous design was the wedding dress of Mrs. Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, when she married John F. Kennedy in 1953.

 

This famous off-shoulder gown was constructed from 50 yards of silk taffeta. 

Unknown fact- 10 days before the wedding ceremony, a waterline broke in Lowe's studio in New York City and destroyed the future First Lady's wedding dress, along with 10 bridesmaids dresses.  Lowe worked tirelessly to re-create the 11 dresses in time for the famous wedding.

Although this dress is Lowe's most famous design, she did not get the credit she deserved.  According to the Huffington Post,  it was reported that Jackie told people that her gown, "was made by a colored woman dressmaker."  Her name was mentioned in the Washington Post when fashion editor, Nine Hyde, had written, "the dress was designed by a negro, Anne Lowe (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/02/05/ann-lowe-black-fashion-designer-jacqueline-kennedy-wedding-dress_n_2624316.html#slide=2065950)."  Lowe's other high profile clients included New York society families, the Rockefellers and the Vanderbilts.

 

 

 

 

In 1960, she opened Anne Lowe Originals, which was located inside of Saks Fifth Avenue. 

Lowe busy at work

 

As of today, her works still live on in the following museums:

• The Black Fashion Museum
• The Smithsonian
• The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Anne Lowe died in 1981 at the age of 83.  Anne Cole Lowe, another innovator of fashion.

Until Next Time!

Patrick Kelly

Hello All,

There are many fashion designers in the world; some are established and some independent.  We all know of fashion designers such as Michael Kors, Donna Karan, and Zac Posen, but when someone speaks of Patrick Kelly, very few people know of him.  For tonight's Black History spotlight, I will discuss Patrick Kelly.  Kelly was one of the most influential fashion designers who changed the fashion industry, and a Mississippi native.

Patrick Kelly was born in Vicksburg, MS on September 24, 1954 in Vicksburg, MS.  He was interested in fashion by his influence of his fashionable female relatives.  He attended Jackson State University before moving to Atlanta, GA, where he worked without pay as a window dresser at the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Boutique.  After encouragement from one of his friends, he moved to New York City, where he attended Parsons School of Design.  Afterwards, he moved to Paris, France.

While in Paris, Kelly achieved his greatest success.  In 1988, he was the first American, and first person of color to be admitted as a member of the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter (the governing body of the prestigious French ready-to-wear industry).  After receiving funding from U.S. conglomerate, Warnaco,

 

Patrick Kelly Illustration

Kelly with models wearing his designs

 

Kelly’s designs were sold in upscale clothing stores as Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Goodman, and Bloomingdales, and his celebrity clients included Bette Davis, Cicely Tyson, Isabella Rossellini, and Grace Jones. 

 

 

Kelly with Iman, Grace Jones, and Naomi Campbell

 

Bette Davis wearing a Patrick Kelly design

 

Some of Kelly's most memorable garments incorporated masses of multicolored buttons and grosgrain ribbons clustered together.  

 

Kelly's popular use of buttons

Kelly's famous button gloves

 

Other motifs, like the use of hats and splashy accessories, celebrated his rural southern roots.  Kelly also created works using controversial images drawn from popular culture, bringing issues of racial stereotyping to the forefront. 

 

 

 

Kelly's iconic watermelon design

 

Although he produced beautiful garments for many prestigious clients, it all ended too soon when Kelly died in 1990 at age 35 from AIDS complications.  Although it has been 23 years since his death, his designs still live on. 

 

Patrick Kelly Retrospective Exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum in the 90s

 

For all of my Mississippi natives, and future fashion designers, I encourage you to read about Patrick Kelly, and look at some of his fashion designs.  They are truly inspirational.

 

Until Next Time!

Harper's BAZAAR Style Ambassador

Hello All,

I am an avid reader of Harper's Bazaar.  I love everything about this magazine, from the style tips and new fashion trends to the 24 hour day of fashion designers, stylists, etc.  With this being said, I am happy to announce that I have just been selected as a Harper's BAZAAR Style Ambassador!!

What is a Harper's BAZAAR Style Ambassador:

• a chic BAZAAR reader hand-selected to represent America's first fashion magazine

What does it mean to be a Harper's BAZAAR Style Ambassador:

• testing new beauty products
• attend VIP events
• share breaking fashion and beauty offers with friends and followers
• win fabulous prizes

I am so happy about this because not only do I love Harper's Bazaar, but I am representing this prestigious magazine in the name of fashion! From my small town in Mississippi, I am representing  the Harper's Bazaar brand! I am so excited!!! So stay tuned everyone because I will be keeping you informed!

Until Next Time!

Zelda Wynn Valdes

Hello All,

Although February is known for Valentine’s Day, my favorite part is celebrating Black history.  This month, I am highlighting the successes of people of color in the fashion industry, whether it is fashion designers, models, stylists, etc.  Today’s feature topic will be Zelda Wynn Valdes.

 

Very few people know of Zelda Wynn Valdes.  I found out about her in an issue of Ebony magazine about 13 years ago.  She was born in 1905 with a natural talent for sewing and creating garments that highlighted the female body. 

 

During the 1940s and 50s, her designs were worn and loved by Hollywood’s biggest starlets.

Dorothy Dandridge

 

Joyce Bryant

Ella Fitzgerald

Josephine Baker

Mae West

 

What many people do not know is that Valdes designed the original Playboy Bunny outfit.  Hugh Hefner was so impressed with her ability to glamorize Hollywood’s elite that he commissioned her to design the iconic costume.

Models wearing the original Playboy Bunny outfit, designed by Valdes. Pictured with singer, Jackie Wilson

 

 In 1948, Valdes opened her own boutique called “Chez Zelda” on Broadway in New York City.  She was the first African American to own a store on that street.  She was also the New York chapter president of the National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designer (NAFAD), a coalition of black designers that was founded by Mary McLeod Bethune.

In 1970, she was approached by the Dance Theater of Harlem to be the head costume designer.  She spent 18 years with the dance company before retiring in 1988 at the age of 83. 

Dancers from the Dance Theater  Harlem wearing Valdes's designs

Valdes with dancers from Dance Theater of Harlem

When asked about her many accomplishments in the fashion industry during a 1994 interview with the New York Times, Valdes simply stated, “I just had a God-given talent for making people beautiful.”  Valdes died at the age of 96 in 2001.  Zelda Wynn Valdes, a true innovator of fashion.

Until Next Time!

More Black Models in Fashion

Hello All,

I love fashion, I love the to design clothing for women, and I love the runway, but what I really love is seeing black models on the runway! When I was a young girl, I couldn't wait to get the latest issue of Ebony Magazine to see what black models were on the runway.  During the 80s and 90s, these black models ruled the runway, and they were always on the runway at the same time in every fashion show.

Iman

 

Naomi Campbell

 

Veronica Webb

 

Louise Vyent

 

By the early 2000s, it seemed like the majority of black models were fading from the runway, and you saw more models of European descent. If there was a black model on the runway, it was only one per fashion show.  We saw new black faces during this time, and of course, all black women were happy about that.  During this time frame, these models were ruling the runway.

 

 

Selita Ebanks

Sessilee Lopez

Jaunel McKenzie

Noemie Lenoir

Yasmin Warsane

Liya Kebede

Alek Wek

 

Jourdan Dunn

 

As of now, models Naomi Campbell, Jourdan Dunn,  Alek Wek, Liya Kebede, Yasmine Warsane, and Sessilee Lopez are still working the runway and in fashion magazines. Iman is an entrepreneur and founder of Iman Cosmetics.  Veronica Webb, also an actress, is retired and married with two daughters, but sometimes she makes appearances in magazines.  After taking a long hiatus, Louise Vyent has started modeling again.  Selita Ebanks has made many television appearances, including BET's Real Husbands of Hollywood.  I have not seen Noeme Lenoir on the runway and in fashion magazines, but Jaunel McKenzie is one of the models for New York Fashion Week.

 

Even though very few of the veterans are still in the modeling industry, more newcomers are featured on the runway, and in some fashion magazines.

 

Jessica White

Jessica White is a model for CoverGirl.  She was also featured in Vogue, Gap, Chloe, and Jean Paul Gautier.  She has walked the runway for Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, and Tommy Hilfiger.

Arlenis Sosa

 

Arlenis Sosa is known as the face of Lancôme.  She has been featured in Vogue and Vogue Italia.  She has walked the runway for Banana Republic, Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, and many others.

Chanel Iman

 

Chanel Iman is best known as a model for Victoria's Secret.  She has also been featured in Elle, Italian Vanity Fair, and several international issues of Vogue.  Besides Victoria's Secret, she has also walked the runway for Balenciaga, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, and many others.



Fatima Siad

Fatima Siad is best known as a contestant on America's Next Top Model, Cycle 10.  She is also the face of Fashion Fair Cosmetics.  She has been featured in Essence, Ebony, Women's Wear Daily, and Elle.  She has walked the runway for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Betsey Johnson, Dries Van Noten, Hermes, and many others.

Joan Smalls

 

Joan Smalls is ranked as the #1 fashion model in the world, according to Models.com, since 2012.  She is also ranked #8 in Forbes: The World's Highest Paid Models, 2013. She has been featured in every magazine, including Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Elle, and many other magazines.  She has walked the runway for Givenchy, Roberto Cavalli, and many others.  She has appeared in several ad campaigns for many fashion houses.

Maria Borges

 

Maria Borges is fairly new in the modeling industry.  She is a featured model for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  She is also featured in ad campaigns for Givenchy, Dior, and CR Fashion Book.  She was found by Ricardo Tisci.  She walked the runway for Givenchy, Dior Haute Couture, and Marc Jacobs.

 

There are many black faces in the modeling industry, but why aren't we seeing more on the runway?  Well, according to interviews by some models of color, they are told by fashion designers to "go home because they already have a black girl!" I feel this is very discriminatory!  I don't know about anyone else, but I would like to see more faces of color on the runway, and at the same time!  Because this is Black History Month, I feel very passionate about writing this article.  I would rather see more black models on the runway instead of seeing them grouped together as video vixens in a rapper's video.

 

Until Next Time!